Scenic route to Ayr.

113 Miles. Now at Craigie Gardens Club site in Ayr.

We had the choice of the coastal route to Ayr or the cross country route skirting around the Galloway Forest Park. After discussions with the camp proprietor it was agreed we take the coastal route.

Castle Douglas.

Well we were not disappointed  and at times we were not quite sure where we were, Scotland or New Zealand. Around the inlet of Wigtown Bay we could have easily have been on SH1 working our way around Lake Taupo or the inland route from Newton Stewart to Stranraer could have easily been anywhere along SH3 through Taranaki. The roads and the scenery were so similar it was uncanny. We can now really understand why so many Scots feel as if New Zealand is home away from home.

Maclellan Castle Kirkcudbright .

We took a deviation into Kirkcudbright (pronounced Kirk Coo Bree) as we had heard so much about the town. We found the inland harbour where fishing boats were tied up with no where to go as the tide was out and they were sitting on the bottom with not a drop of water under the hull. MacLellan Castle was interesting in that as a castle it didn’t have all the usual defences found in castle’s of that era. It was built more as a town house for Sir Thomas MacLellan of Bombie who was the first Provost of Kirkcudbright in 1570. The top 3 floors contained 15 rooms which are reputed to have never been fully completed. When Sir Thomas died in 1597 the estate went to his first son, Robert who became 1st Lord Kirkcudbright by charter of King Charles I.

Kirkcudbright memorial to lost sailors and fisherman.

The family fell on hard times and when John the 3rd Lord Kirkcudbright died in 1644 the estate was sold and the castle was abandoned as a residence in 1700. In 1752 the roof and all the fittings were stripped from the building leaving it to the elements. After 260 years the shell of the building is still in sound condition, a testament to the builders.

Kirkcudbright harbour, these fishing boats are totally high and dry.

Just out of Creetown we stopped at a scenic layby for some lunch. We were right alongside the estuary of the river Cree into Wigtown Bay where some Salmon fisherman had there poles set up in the river to hang their net’s on when the Salmon run begins. It was low tide and we hadn’t been stopped long when the tide started to come in again and the expansive mudflats soon started to disappear.

Wigtown Bay mudflats.

Travelling alongside Loch Ryan we saw a Stena Lines fast ferry and a P&O regular ferry passing in mid channel on their way to and from Ireland. There are two ports in the Loch, one at Stranraer and the other at Cairnryan where they are busy building a new roll on, roll off ferry terminal. Just outside the heads we spotted another P&O fast ferry heading into the Loch so they must be busy little ports. The existing terminal was full of trucks and trailers awaiting the next sailing.

Salmon fisherman's poles across the River Cree estuary.

Travelling up the coast to Girvan we couldn’t help but notice the dome shaped island (Ailsa Craig) out in the Firth of Clyde. This is a Volcanic plug from an extinct volcano which last erupted 500 million years ago. Two miles in circumference and 1100 feet it has had a chequered career. In the 16th C it was a Catholic hide out in the Scottish reformation. The 18th and 19th centuries saw it being used as a prison and then quarried until the 20th C for Blue Hone Granite which was turned into Curling Stones. Now it has been cleared of all vermin and is a bird sanctuary for Gannets and Puffins which explains the massive white marks which show it the photo.

Ailsa Craig out in the Firth of Clyde.

Our latest camp site is right in Ayr and only a 10 minute walk away  to town so we will see what tomorrow brings.

P&O fast ferry from Ireland passing a conventional ferry leaving Loch Ryan for Belfast or Larne.

A total of 2764 miles, since 5 March 2011

Spotlight on Dalbeattie.

Welcome to Dalbeattie, Scotland.

Being Sunday and Dalbeattie not being a very large town we were unsure as to what we might find as we took a 10 minute stroll into town. First up was a well maintained park with plenty of swings, seesaws and a flying fox to keep kid’s amused. The local’s obviously take full advantage of this facility as there were plenty of families enjoying themselves. In the centre of the park was the towns war memorial and a 100 year old band stand which has been refurbished. The supports for the bandstand are old gas street lights from Glasgow who had no further use for them.

100 year old band stand Dalbeattie Park. The uprights are gas street light standards from Glasgow.

Most of the towns shops are on High St (where else) with just a few on side streets. On one street corner is the towns privately owned family run museum. The museum curator and his son were on hand to tell us about anything that we were interested in and they certainly could talk. We established that the town has a history in the Cotton Mill trade which is why the town has so many identical cottages like the mill towns in the North of England.

18thC Mill workers cottages in Dalbeattie. All the attic additions are 20th century.

The other main commodity that made the town is granite on which the town is built. It was here that they perfected the technique of polishing granite for head stones, as well as kitchen and bathroom facilities. In the late 1800’s every man, woman and child would have been involved in the industry until 1883 when there was a slump in demand due to cheaper granite being imported from Denmark (sounds a familiar story). Many quarry workers were forced to leave the area, many emigrating to America, South Africa and Australia where they could carry on their trade, some becoming self employed and very wealthy. Some of these families still maintain ties with Dalbeattie.

Old coal range display at Dalbeattie museum.

Another interesting story was regarding Lt W M Murdoch and the sinking of the RMS Titanic. Murdoch came from Dalbeattie and was on the bridge when Titanic hit the iceberg. There is a memorial to him on the wall of the Town Hall and a memorial prize to be competed for annually at the local public school where Murdoch was educated. There is also a letter of apology to the people of Dalbeattie from the makers of the movie “Titanic” because in the movie Murdoch is portrayed as shooting a passenger and then committing suicide. Evidence has now been found that proved Murdoch went down with the ship and didn’t commit any such act.

Memorial to W M Murdoch who perished aboard R.M.S Titanic.

Another story we were told was of one of the musician’s who was hired as a subcontractor to White Star shipping. Relatives of this gentleman have found evidence that his contract was terminated the minute the Titanic sank and no further money was forthcoming to his family, no play, no pay. Instead the family received an account for the non return of parts of his uniform, namely the brass buttons. This account was never paid but held on to by family members and has only recently come to light. Apparently there are two books being published, due out very soon that dispel  and confirm many myth’s and tales as to what did happen aboard Titanic that fateful night. Should be interesting reading.

Dalbeattie High Street.

Talking to the curator he told us how the museum was started and how it has expanded. When ever he had an idea as to how to improve the museum an item would suddenly arrive on his doorstep or he would receive substantial bequest's or donations, totally unsolicited, enabling him to carry out his plans.

Cotton Mill town of Dalbeattie. Later famous for it's granite.

One visitor got into discussing the subject of ghost’s with him as to whether they had ever encountered ghost’s in the museum. The curator did admit that he felt that he had a guardian angel watching over the museum because of how things had happened but nothing more. The visitor then told him that there was a spirit standing behind him who was smiling. When asked to describe the spirit, the curator felt it was a load of humbug until the visitor quite vividly described the vision with a scar in the spirit’s neck. The curator said that his hair stood on end because he knew exactly who the spirit was, when he died and who his widow was. So believe it or believe it not!

Bedspread donated to Dalbeattie museum in recognition of the association of the two towns Westerly in the US and Dalbeattie

So if ever you are in the vicinity of Dalbeattie be sure to visit this local amenity, you won’t be dis-appointed.

War memorial Dalbeattie Park.

Gretna Green.

60.7 Miles. Now at Glenearly Caravan Park at Dalbeattie.

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The Old Blacksmith shop, Gretna Green.

 

We have left England behind for a while as we plan to spend the next 5 weeks in Scotland. First visit was to the World Famous Gretna Green which was only an hour away from our campsite at Crofton Hall. Because the tourist trade is so important here they have laid out a huge free car park catering for everybody from motorcycles to tour coaches making it very easy to stop off for a while.

Fancy marrying at Gretna Green? Give them a call.

Steel chassis with wooden bodywork.

 

Retired at 23 years of age. Ex Guardsman horse from London.

 

We had no sooner pulled into the car park when we spotted a horse float with “Tartan Carriages Wedding Specialists” emblazoned along the side. Behind the truck were two well groomed black horses and a shiny black carriage being prepared for a wedding. Talking to the proprietor it transpired he was a retired Guardsman from London as was one of his horses. The horse had been retired with him, was 23 years old but still fit enough to work. The other horse was his “Baby” who was only 6 years old and still a learner.

 

All set for another wedding special at Gretna Green.

 

The carriage had been specially made in Germany in 2008 with a steel chassis, wooden coachwork and leather upholstery. The only modification was the Occupational Health & Safety rule the carriage had to have disc brakes. The old harness that had a bum strap around the rear of the horse to slow the carriage on a down hill slope was no longer necessary.

No guessing where Dot is.

Apparently “The Gretna Wedding Bureau” can arrange the cheapest weddings in the world including a Piper and are taking orders from all around the world. First time or renew vows they can handle it all.

What is there to say?

A total of 2651 miles, since 5 March 2011

Crofton Hall, Carlisle

61.3 Miles. Now at Crofton Hall CL, near Carlisle.

Controlled waterway above Lake Thirlmere.

Stock holding pens in the Lake District.

This morning we were on the road by 8am for two main reasons. Firstly I was awake at 5.30am and secondly Dot was not looking forward to the trip along the narrow road from Coniston to Ambleside. I guessed that if we got away early we could miss a lot of traffic. Well the plan worked a treat as we only met about a dozen vehicles on the move and the drivers were all very courteous negotiating the narrow sections of road.

How's this for a stone wall. He didn't have to go far for the stones.

ET? Who knows? No it's not photographic trickery.

As we had plenty of time to spare we made numerous stops including a long one at Lake Thirlmere where we were able to take lots of photo’s. While there we struck up a conversation with a Danish couple who are over here for 6 weeks. They spotted our New Zealand flags flying on the rear of Gypsy Rover and wanted to catch up with the latest news about Christchurch as this news item has dropped off the news headlines. They have visited NZ 3 times in the past and were interested to see how New Zealander’s were coping since the disaster. Nice to see that somebody cares.

Views around the Lake District.

The elegant archway to the grounds of Crofton Hall.

We arrived at our latest camp site just after lunch to find ourselves in what would have been a walled garden for the stately Crofton Hall. Parts of the estate are still in use but the main building is all closed up with windows boarded over. After lunch we went for a walk as the weather has finally cleared up and the sun is now shining. Pity it couldn’t have been like this 2 days ago.

Crofton Hall. All empty and closed up. Neither clock is operational.

The rear of Crofton Hall. Not as Grand as the front.

Several buildings are in use as a cheese factory which we visited this afternoon. Cheese made from unpasteurised Cow and Goat milk using old fashioned methods with modern equipment. They also sell fruit drinks made from old recipes so I came away with a smoked cheese and a bottle of Ginger Beer with Lemon and Apple juice instead of sugar. Both were tried at afternoon tea and went down a treat. Unfortunately Dot couldn’t find anything to her liking.

Games room at Crofton Hall. Formerly the hidden garden of the Hall.

Gypsy Rover at Crofton Hall near Carlisle.

A total of 2590 miles, since 5 March 2011

Steam on Coniston Waters.

The 1859 Steam Yacht "Gondola" was refitted in 1979 at £400,000.

Despite the weather looking non too favourable we walked the mile and a half from camp to Coniston pier. We were hoping that the wind and choppy waters on Lake Coniston wouldn’t cancel today’s sailings of the Steam Yacht “Gondola” We had seen this very elegant boat on the ITV1 television programme “The Lakes” and once we knew we were close by we couldn’t resist the opportunity to sail on her.

Steam boiler of steam yacht "Gondola" Burns environmentally clean compressed fire logs.

Right on time “Gondola” came steaming around the headland and we had ascertained that despite a coach tour booking there were plenty of seats available. To enter the main cabin you have to walk past the open sided engine room where everything is spotlessly clean and all the brass and copper is highly polished. These days the boiler is fired with compressed fire logs which are cleaner and more environmentally greener than coal.

SY "Gondola" designed by Sir James Ramsden of the Furness Railway Co.

Exactly 11am and we became aware that we were on the move despite not hearing a single noise from the engine room just feet away from us. With no noise to contend with, the skippers commentary  came across very well. We cruised down the lake to a point where Donald Campbell crashed in his fatal 1967 water speed record attempt before turning back towards Brantwood and the Monk Coniston Estate at the Northern tip of the lake.  Brantwood was the home of 19^C poet,painter and philosopher John Ruskin and the Monk Coniston Estate has gradually come into the care of the National Trust through the generosity of author Beatrix Potter (Mrs Heelis). Both of these people loved the Lake District and took inspiration from it.

Looking through both cabins of Steam Yacht "Gondola"

The sleek upward pointing bow of Steam Yacht "Gondola"

The history of “Gondola” is one of love and dedication. Designed by the General Manager of the then Furness Railway Co, Sir James Ramsden. It was built in Liverpool in 1859 at the cost of 1000 guineas. Carried in sections to Coniston, it was assembled on the lake side and launched in December of that year. In 1936 “Gondola” was retired and had her engine and boiler removed to power a sawmill only to be sold to a private owner who converted her to a houseboat moored on the lake.

The slipper stern of Steam Yacht "Gondola"

Disaster struck in the winter of 1963 when a storm broke her moorings driving her ashore. With this and a lowering of the water level in the lake left her high and dry. After a removal writ was issued a local enthusiast bought her 3 days before the writ was due and with a bulldozer dragged her back into the water and sank her where she lay until 1975. It was at this time that some Lake District National trust staff took an interest and set about resurrecting her. Four years later “Gondola” was back in Vickers Shipbuilding yard in Barrow in Furness under going a rebuild.

This was Steam Yacht "Gondola" between 1960 and mid 1970's.

Once more she was returned to Coniston in sections where she was put together and given a complete interior refit. In 1980 she was relaunched back on Coniston water where she has been in service ever since. In 1897 “Gondola” carried 14,264 passengers, now in the 21st century she is averaging 34,000 passengers a year and long may she continue.

The elegant serpents head on the Steam Yacht "Gondola"

We would recommend a visit to Coniston waters and “Gondola” anytime,so if you are wondering where to spend your Summer holidays? Head for the Lake District.

Coniston architecture built in slab stone.

Carnforth and Coniston.

46.8 Miles. Now at Park Coppice Club Site, in Coniston.

The sun finally came out as we left the Herons Wood camp site at Lancaster. We hadn’t gone far when we were confronted with an old Gypsy caravan being pulled by two beautiful white horse’s. The road we were travelling on didn’t really make it easy to pass but we finally got around them. We later learnt that there is a Gypsy Horse Fair at Appleby over the next week so we assume that’s where he was heading.

Gypsy Traveller on his way to Appleby Horse Fair.

Travelling the A6 we of course passed through Carnforth and no self respecting railway enthusiast  would fail to stop and have a look at this famous station now being looked after by the Carnforth Station Railway Trust. The station had been neglected since 1960 and it was in the 1990’s  that the trust started to restore it. There is a museum in some of the old waiting and staff rooms and a shop and cafe to help raise funds for the ongoing maintenance. One room is set aside for the famous 1946 movie “Brief Encounter” which was filmed in the station. Even the British Railways engine driver and fireman involved are mentioned.

Carnforth Railway Station and Visitor Centre

Carnforth's operating platforms.

You wouldn't expect to find this on a railway platform. This old Chevrolet is registered and street legal.

Carnforth's famous "Brief Encounter"  film clock.

The old Station Hotel opposite Carnforth Railway Station.

Carnforth is another typical railway town starting life as a village of a mere 290 inhabitants. First came the canal which increased the population but it wasn’t until the arrival of the railway that Carnforth became a town. An Ironworks was added to this bringing more prosperity to the town. The demise came in the 1960’s when steam loco’s were phased out in favour of diesel power. The old engine sheds and associated buildings were taken over by Steam Town, a group of steam railway enthusiast’s. This establishment was open to the public until the 1990’s when costs involving Health and Safety regulations forced the management to close their doors. These days they are still very much involved in Steam Train excursions on the main line.

Lakeland motor launch "Ruskin" on Lake Coniston.

Camping grounds at Coniston Hall, Lake Coniston.

Country houses across Lake Coniston.

Lake Coniston Sailing Club with an old boathouse on the shore.

Our campsite here in Coniston is 20 acre’s spread out through a 62 acre forest alongside Lake Coniston and is totally different to any other camp we have visited. There are 285 sites and the camp is just about full. After getting settled we went for a walk along the edge of the lake past Coniston Hall where there is a large campsite which is full of true campers in tents, trailer campers and a few small camper vans. All in all the whole place is abuzz with families taking advantage of the school holiday.

Gypsy Rover at Park Coppice, Lake Coniston.

Coniston Hall now looked after by the National Trust.

Interesting tent spotted at Coniston Hall camping grounds.

A total of 2529 miles, since 5 March 2011